Showing posts with label vacuum tube. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vacuum tube. Show all posts

05 July 2015

DIY 6EM7 Single-Ended Triode (SET) Amplifier

This unique looking hi-fi amplifier was put together by Matt in a vertical wooden chassis that has been styled after early vacuum tube equipment of the 1920s.  The amplifier uses a single 6EM7 tube per channel.  

 6EM7 Single-Ended Triode (SET) Amplifier
 6EM7 Single-Ended Triode (SET) Amplifier

The 6EM7 tube has two dissimilar triodes in one envelope.  One is a high gain, low power unit intended as an amplifier or oscillator, and the other is a higher power unit originally intended to drive the magnetic deflection coils on the back of a CRT.  Together the tube sections are well suited to create a nice little audio amplifier with just one 6EM7 tube per channel.  The clean output power from the 6EM7 SET amplifier is 2.2 Watts per channel and the frequency response is consistent with the advertised performance of the Edcor audio output transformer (40Hz to 18kHz).

Matt reports that the single-ended 6EM7 amplifier sounds wonderful!  Bass is well articulated without being boomy, mid-tones are clear and even, and the highs are crystal clear. The amp has exceptional transient response; reproducing my favorite classical recorder piece ("Frederick The Great : Sonata in B-Flat - Allegro" performed by Michala Petri) with clarity, lightness, and vibrancy.

For full details, see the 6EM7 Single-Ended Triode (SET) amplifier project page.

22 April 2014

Elekit TU-8200 Tube Amplifier Kit (SE 6L6)

Over the past several years I have been enjoying an Elekit TU-879S Stereo Tube Amplifier Kit paired up along side of Fostex FE206E high sensitivity speaker drivers in Dallas rear-loaded horn enclosures.  I put a number of hours on the Elekit TU-879S, enough to fully consume the stock EH 6L6 tubes and to cycle through a number of power tube sets before deciding on JJ EL34 blue glass tubes.  Throughout this time the Elekit TU-879S amplifier has been reliable and a good performer sonically so it was disappointing to hear that the popular TU-879S tube amp kit had been discontinued. 

Elekit TU-879S with Fostex FE206E Rear-Loaded Horn Speakers
Elekit TU-879S with Fostex FE206E Rear-Loaded Horn Speakers

However, there is good news - the follow-up tube amplifier kit to the Elekit TU-879S, the Elekit TU-8200 is now available from TubeDepot (USA) and VK Music (Canada).  The renowned Elekit designer, Mr. Fujita, has gone back to the drawing board to design a superior tube amplifier kit from top to bottom. The Elekit TU-8200 will allow the kit builder to enjoy fine tube audio sound in just a few evenings.

Elekit TU-8200 - 6L6 Tube Amplifier Kit - Parts
Parts - Elekit TU-8200 Tube Amp Kit

Some of the improvements over the Elekit TU-879S tube amplifier kit include:
  • Three Selectable output modes - Ultra-linear, Triode, or Pentode by changing a jumper on PCB.
  • TU-8200 kit ships with a R-core power transformer that supports 100V, 115V, 200V, and 230V mains. 
  • Improvements to the audio and power supply circuitry.
  • Headphone output.
  • Optional Elekit PS-3249 DAC to decode audio from computer USB source.
The Elekit TU-8200 tube amplifier kit ships with Electro-Harmonix 6L6GC power tubes, but will also accept a wide range of other power tubes such as 6CA7, EL34, KT66, KT77, KT88, 6550 (and more) with no modifications and no need to re-bias.

Elekit TU-8200 - 6L6 Tube Amplifier Kit - Rear
Elekit TU-8200 - 6L6 Tube Amplifier Kit - Rear

Elekit TU-8200 Main Specifications
  • 2 X 12AU7, 2 X 6L6GC (can also use 6CA7, EL34, KT66, KT77, KT88, 6550)
  • Output Modes: Ultra-linear, Pentode or Triode mode
  • 6L6GC (Ultra Linear) 8W + 8W  (8 ohms)
  • 6L6GC (Pentode) 8.2W + 8.2W  (8 ohms)
  • 6L6GC (Triode) 4W + 4W  (8 ohms) 
  • Speaker Impedance: 4-6.3 ohm and 8-16 ohm
  • Headphone: Standard jack (6.4mm DIA)
  • Power Consumption: 60W (with 6L6GC)
  • Weight: 14.55lbs (6.6 kg)
  • Dimensions: Width 9.92" (252mm) x Height 6.22" (158mm) x Depth 11.22" (285mm)
The new Elekit TU-8200 tube amplifier kit looks quite tempting.  What I liked most about the TU-879S tube amplifier was the seemingly endless amount of tube combinations that were possible.  With the TU-8200 tube amp kit and the ability to select between Ultra-linear, Pentode or Triode output modes, the number of possible tube combinations are endless.  We are planning to take a closer look at one of the Elekit TU-8200 tube amp kits soon so please stay tuned for more updates.

Elekit TU-8200 - 6L6 Tube Amplifier Kit
Elekit TU-8200 - 6L6 Tube Amplifier Kit

28 March 2014

300B Single-Ended-Triode Amplifier

300B Single-Ended-Triode (SET) Amplifier Project

The DIY 300B triode amplifier shown below was completed by Stamou Tasos (Greece).  The 300B triode amplifier was built following the 300B single-ended (SE) tube amplifier schematic by J.C. Morrison.


DIY 300B Single-Ended-Triode Hi-Fi Amplifier

DIY 300B Single-Ended-Triode Hi-Fi Amplifier

For this single-ended (SE) 300B triode amplifier build Stamou has used premium parts, Lundahl audio output transformers and a DIY chassis. The 300B Single-Ended-Triode (SET) amplifier circuit uses a direct coupled 6SN7 driver stage. The output stage is a SE 300B triode and the maximum power output is about 8 Watts per channel. A pair of reasonably sensitive (~91 dB+) loudspeakers will be required with this 300B SET amplifier. 


300B Single-Ended-Triode Amplifier - Point-to-Point Construction

300B Single-Ended-Triode Amplifier - Point-to-Point Construction

The 300B SET amplifier was built using point-to-point construction.  The chassis for the 300B triode amplifier was also built by Stamou.  The frame is made from 20 mm thick MDF wood which was finished with spray primer and paint. The top plate is made from a 4 mm thick aluminum plate and the bottom plate from a 2 mm thick aluminum plate.   Your enclosure will require good ventilation.  "This is a great sounding 300B triode amplifier that I am sure DIYers will find to be very rewarding."  For the full 300B SET amplifier project details see the DIY 300B Single-Ended-Triode (SET) Hi-Fi Amplifier project page.


More 300B Triode Amplifiers


15 December 2013

4S Universal Preamplifier for 12A_7 Tubes

The 4S Universal preamp is a Super Simple Single Stage (4S) line stage preamp that works well with the entire range of 12A_7 tubes - 12AU7, 12AV7, 12AY7, 12AT7, 12AZ7, and 12AX7. You can change the tube type to vary the gain of the preamplifier by quite a large margin. 

4S Universal Preamp for 12A_7 Tubes
4S Universal Preamp for 12A_7 Tubes
The preamp uses a 6CA4 tube rectified power supply which is very quiet. The preamplifier is built using point-to-point construction techniques and into a die cast aluminum enclosure from Pomona.  The attenuation control is on the output of the preamp.

4S Universal Preamp with 6V6 Lacewood Amp
4S Universal Preamp with 6V6 Lacewood Amp
The 4S Universal is a preamp that can be adapted to the task at hand simply by swapping tubes. It also allows some tube rolling to compare various tubes in your stash. The 4S Universal preamp is a great little unit to really bring out the most in your power amps.  For full details see the 4S Universal Preamplifier Project pageComments and questions about this project are welcome in the 4S Universal Tube Preamp Project (12A*7) thread.

Super Simple Single Stage (4S) preamp with Genalex Gold Lion 12AU7
Super Simple Single Stage (4S) preamp with Genalex Gold Lion 12AU7
The photo above is one of Mark's Super Simple Single Stage (4S) preamplifier builds.  For more information see Mark's 4S Universal Preamplifier for 12A?7 Valves.

25 November 2012

6DJ8 Tube Headphone Amp

We are always on the lookout for good headphone amplifiers and here is a great simple tube design that will work with a wide range of headphones.  This tube headphone amplifier design comes to us from Bruce Heran.  The tube headphone amplifier is designed along the lines of the Oddwatt power amplifiers with the exception that this headamp does not require a driver stage. The headphone amplifier uses only one 6DJ8 tube per channel in a push-pull configuration.  All the circuit gain is in the single output stage. A constant current source (CCS) is used on the cathodes to force class-A operation. The headphone amplifier circuit has no coupling capacitors and no feedback loops.  There are a total of only 7 components including the tube in each channel.  The output stage is transformer coupled and the two transformer choices will accommodate most headphones with an impedance between 32 and 600 ohms.

6DJ8 (ECC88) Valve Headphone Amplifier - Inside
6DJ8 (ECC88) Tube Headphone Amplifier - Finished
The frequency response at the 50 mW level is from 20 Hz to 28 kHz within 0.5 dB and the wide band signal-to-noise is at -84 dB. Power consumption of the headphone amplifier is approximately 20 Watts (W).  Bruce reports excellent results with his Koss Pro4AAT (250 ohms) and Sennheiser HD-280 PRO (64 ohms) headphones.  "there was no audible noise or hum and the response was rich and clean"  For full project details, see the DIY 6DJ8 (ECC88) Tube Hi-Fi Headphone Amplifier Project page.

More DIY Headphone Amplifier Projects:

02 October 2012

Push-Pull EL84 Mono Block Amps

 Mono Block Ultra-Linear Class-A Push-Pull EL84 Tube Amplifier Project

Recently Bruce has been enjoying his PoddWatt amplifier and the EL84 tube sound that he has revisited the original OddWatt amplifier project, tweaked it and put together an improved EL84 push-pull amplifier.  Like the previous EL84 projects the Mini Block amplifiers use a EL84 self-inverting push-pull output stage that is biased into class-A operation.  The big difference is that the amplifiers are built as mono blocks.

Mini Block Push-Pull EL84 (6BQ5) Valve Amplifiers

Interior - Mini Block EL84 Push-Pull Amplifiers
The input circuit is a 5751 SRPP.  The ouput uses the ultra-linear connection and output power was 5.8 W @ 2% distortion and less than 0.25%  at 1 W.  The measured frequency response was 10 Hz to 44 kHz within 0.2 dB.   Bruce reports that the Mini Blocks have slightly more output power than the Poddwatts and seem to have more detail while retaining all the good characteristics of the stereo Poddwatt amps.  Full details are available on the Mini Block Ultra-Linear Class-A Push-Pull EL84 (6BQ5) Valve (Tube) Amplifier Project page.


More Mono Block Tube Amplifier Projects

02 November 2011

Groovewatt Tube RIAA Phono Preamp

The latest project from Bruce's workbench is the Groovewatt, a tube based RIAA phono preamplifier.  The Groovewatt is the result of over one year of work and several build iterations.  Bruce set some pretty high performance requirements for the tube preamp and he is very pleased with the results. 

Second Groovewatt Build 
The Groovewatt uses a symmetrical SRPP (12AX7) input stage which feeds a passive RIAA equalization network. The second gain stage is nearly identical to the input stage and is direct coupled to the third stage which is a cathode follower (12AT7).  Bruce used Gold Pin JJ ECC83S for the SRPP stages and half of a ECC81 for each side of the cathode follower.  The power supply is solid state and DC is used for the tube heaters.  Total gain of the RIAA phono preamp is about 45 dB which should be sufficient for use with a high output MC cartridge.

Inside View - Third Groovewatt Build
Third Groovewatt Build
The measured performance of the Grovewatt is excellent and noted in the project page.  Bruce reports excellent results with the Groovewatt in place in his system.  For the full details of the Groovewatt, see the DIY Vacuum Tube (Valve) RIAA Phono Preamp project page.

 
More Hi-Fi Vacuum Tube Projects by Bruce

14 June 2011

Fundamental Amplifier Techniques with Electron Tubes: Book Review

Late last year Elektor released their most recent publication on the increasingly popular subject of hi-fi tube audio, Fundamental Amplifier Techniques with Electron Tubes by Rudolf Moers.  The new book is actually the English translation of "Fundamentele versterkertechniek met elektronenbuizen" (ISBN 978-90-5381-226-6) authored earlier in Dutch by Rudolf Moers.  The thick hard bound book is 834 pages and seemingly covers what appears to be just about every topic on the subject of audio amplifier design with vacuum tubes.  I recently had an opportunity to read the book and here is my overview of the new electron tube book. 
Fundamental Amplifier Techniques with Electron Tubes - Rudolf Moers
The thick book is divided into ten chapters. At just a few pages each, the first two chapters, (1) Introduction and (2) Principles of Electron Emission are very small relative to the remaining chapters and book.  These very short introductory chapters provide only a very brief overview and assume that the reader has a reasonable background in electronics.  The meat of the book begins with chapters 3, 4, 5 and 6 which each respectively go on to cover the basic electron tube types: diode, triode, tetrode and pentode.  For each of the basic tube types the chapters generally include information on tube construction techniques, the tube characteristics, all the typical tube applications and several design examples.  The chapter subsections are quite detailed and will for example get into the formulas and calculations of AC ripple that can be expected in a C-L-C pi-filter and calculating gain of as common cathode amplifier.  Over 200 pages are dedicated towards the pentode and over 250 pages are spent on the tridode.  The book also contains many technical questions which the reader can work through, much like the questions that would be found in a science text book.  A detailed solution accompanies each of the questions and this makes the book a very good learning tool for those interested in audio theory and design.  Frequency Dependent Behavior is covered in the 88 page Chapter 7.  The chapter goes into details regarding linear distortions for the various components that make up an amplifier.  Non-Linear Distortions and Noise are discussed in Chapter 8 and the various types of Negative Feedback is the topic for Chapter 9.  The final chapter (10) pertains to the construction of electron tube amplifiers.  As a builder of amplifiers I found interest in this chapter as it contained good practical information on electronics components, various construction techniques, crosstalk, heat / cooling issues, grounding, shielding and safety.  Also included in Chapter 10 are additional details of Rudolf's parallel push-pull 300B monoblock tube amplifiers among other of his amplifier builds.

The full table of contents for Fundamental Amplifier Techniques with Electron Tubes is available from Elektor's website [PDF - 163kB].

The book which is written in a technical format with plenty of theory, math and graphs will be primary suited towards advanced hobbyists with a strong understanding of analogue electronics and towards students and professionals involved electrical engineering and audio design.  Those without a good background in electrical science may not find the text and formulas all that easy to follow.  The carefully written book is a significant undertaking and provides plenty of accurate and valuable theoretical information on numerous subjects related to understanding and designing electron tube amplifiers.  Congratulations to Mr. Moers and his colleagues for the excellent learning tool and resource that they have compiled.  I will continue to find value in this book as a reference resource in my workshop.
The book Fundamental Amplifier Techniques with Electron Tubes, by Rudolf Moers (ISBN 978-0-905705-93-4) is available for $104.90US (plus shipping) from Elektor.

More DIY Audio Books

15 November 2010

Fundamental Amplifier Techniques with Electron Tubes

About 6 weeks ago Rudolf Moers shared with us the details around his parallel push-pull 300B monoblock tube amplifiers.  We noted that the design of the parallel push-pull 300B tube amplifiers is explained in his new book Fundamentele versterkertechniek met elektronenbuizen, ISBN 978-90-5381-226-6 which was at the time only available in Dutch.  Good news!  The English translation of Rudolf's new book is now available - Fundamental Amplifier Techniques with Electron Tubes.

Fundamental Amplifier Techniques with Electron Tubes by Rudolf Moers is the latest Elektor publication on the subject of vacuum tubes.  The 800+ page hard bound book covers just about every topic you need to know about the fundamentals of vacuum tubes and how to apply that information towards audio amplifier design.


The aim of the Fundamental Amplifier Techniques with Electron Tubes book is to give the reader practical knowledge about vacuum tube technology and how to apply that knowledge in audio amplifiers.  The practical applications include power supplies, audio design and DIY construction of tube based amplifiers.  This new book is much more than just building a tube amplifier from a schematic, it walks you through the theory so you understand the design of circuits and the accompanying calculations.  Then with a multimeter, signal generator and an oscilloscope, you can verify the actual circuit parameters to confirm the theory and practice are very close.  The 834 page book Fundamental Amplifier Techniques with Electron Tubes, by Rudolf Moers is bound in a hard cover and sure to be a must-have reference source for all tube audio fans. 

Fundamental Amplifier Techniques with Electron Tubes, by Rudolf Moers, ISBN 978-0-905705-93-4 is available for $104.90US (plus shipping) from Elektor.  The table of contents is available from the publishers site and you can take a look at Rudolf's parallel push-pull 300B monoblock tube amplifiers to get a visual image of the book contents.



More DIY Audio Books

12 November 2010

Oatley K272A Head Amp audioXpress Review

The December 2010 issue of audioXpress magazine includes a review of the $30AU Oatley Electronics K272A tube based Headphone Amplifier Kit.  Mark Houston completed a review of the Oatley Electronics K272 Headphone Amplifier Kit in August 2009 and since then many hobbyists have enjoyed this inexpensive audio kit.  The hybrid headphone amplifier kit uses 6418 sub-miniature vacuum tubes and a headphone driver integrated circuit (PT2308).  Adding appeal to the tube based kit is battery operation. 


Highlights from the audioXpress Reliable Review of the Oatley Electronics K272A Headphone Amp by Aren van Waarde.

"Oatley Electronics (www.oatleyelectronics.com), which sells electronic parts and used equipment in New South Wales (Australia), has launched a small range of audio kits based on tube technology.  My interest was raised by glowing reviews written by Mark Houston, ..."

 "My initial impression of the sound of the K272A: warm, pleasant, and detailed.  Organ music sounded great."

"... the K272A/Grado combination produced excellent sound: a fne bass (powerful and deep but not overblown), detailed mid-range, sweet top-end.  Tonal colors of string instruments and vocals of male and female soloists were naturally represented. Many small, previously unnoticed details of recordings were revealed."

"In direct A/B comparisons, the K272A sounded better than the G4OEP (3/08 aX, p. 36) and even slightly better than the Stor class A amplifier (6/03 aX, p. 30)."

"For the asking price of 30 Australian dollars, the K272A is an absolute bargain.  And it does not involve any dangerous voltages."

The full review of the Oatley Electronics K272A Headphone Amp is available as a direct download from audioXpress [PDF- 737kB].


Additional Oatley Electronics Audio Kit Information:

What's Playing: Clannad - Macalla

29 September 2010

Parallel Push-Pull 300B Tube Amplifiers

Parallel Push-Pull 300B Mono Amplifiers


Rudolf Moers from the Netherlands has kindly sent us details of his parallel push-pull 300B monoblock tube amplifiers to share with the DIY Audio community.  It should be quite obvious from the photographs that the design and construction of a pair of amplifiers this size is by no means a small undertaking.  Rudolf tells us that he spent about 14 months designing and constructing the pair of monoblock amplifiers.  The total cost of each amplifiers was about 1300 Euro, or about $1760US as of 29 September 2010.  Each monoblock weighs 25 kg (55 pounds) and the overall dimensions are 530 mm deep, 390 mm high, 400 mm wide.


parallel push-pull 300B tube monoblock amplifer

Parallel Push-Pull 300B Mono Amplifiers

Schematics - Parallel Push-Pull 300B Tube Amplifier

The few notes on the schematics are written in Dutch.  You can use a free online language translation service like Google Translate to translate them into English.

Parallel Push-Pull 300B Tube Amplifier

The input stages consists of a preamplifier and cathode phase splitter using a ECC82 (12AU7), amplitude amplification (driver) using a ECC99 and cathode followers using a ECC82 (12AU7) tube.  The output stage uses four 300B directly heated power triodes in a parallel push-pull configuration (Ia = 40mA and Vak = 356 VDC) with no negative feedback.  The output power for each monoblock is about 25W.

When powered on the heater supply for the ECC[82,99,82] tubes goes from 1.5 to 6.3 VDC in 30 seconds.  Likewise, the 300B heater supply goes from 1.5 to 5.0 VDC in 30 seconds.  Polarity of 5.0 VDC heater supply can be reversed with a switch.  All the heater voltages are separated using galvanic isolation.
The high voltage supply uses a mercury filled full-wave rectifier AX50 and is switched on when all heater voltage are at about 90% of their final value.  The AX50 rectifier limits the maximum output power to 25W.

parallel push-pull 300B vacuum tube amp inside


The enclosure is wooden and easily accessible with a hinged lid and there is plenty of interior space.  The amplifier is constructed in a completely modular fashion with connectors.  All the modules are built on prototyping boards.


parallel push-pull 300B vacuum tube amp inside


Measurements Parallel Push-Pull 300B Tube Amplifier 

Input power: 281 W(RMS) at 230V (50Hz/60Hz) mains voltage
Output power: 25 W(RMS) at 0 dB (775 mV) sine wave input signal
Efficiency: 8%

Bandwidth:

-0.1 dB at 20 Hz and 50 kHz at 25 W
-3.0 dB at 10 Hz and 100 kHz at 25 W

Distortion (THD) (distortion without hum suppression)
1.5% at 5 W and 10 Hz
4.0% at 23 W and 20 Hz
3.5% at 25 W and 50 Hz
3.5% at 25 W and 100 Hz
3.5% at 25 W and 200 Hz
3.4% at 25 W and 500 Hz
3.5% at 25 W and 1 kHz
3.5% at 25 W and 2 kHz
3.5% at 25 W and 5 kHz
3.5% at 25 W and 10 kHz
3.3% at 25 W and 20 kHz
2.7% at 25 W and 50 kHz
4.4% at 15 W and 100 kHz

THD < 1% at 2 W between 10 Hz and 20 kHz
THD < 2% at 10 W between 10 Hz and 20 kHz
THD < 3% at 15 W between 10 Hz and 20 kHz

Hum voltage over the loudspeaker is < -51 dB and inaudible with an ear against the loudspeaker.



Rudolf informs us that the design of this parallel push-pull 300B tube amplifier is explained in his new book "Fundamentele versterkertechniek met elektronenbuizen", ISBN 978-90-5381-226-6 which is currently only available in Dutch.  However, an English translation "Fundamental Amplifier Techniques with Electron Tubes" is expected in November 2010.  We will post an update when the English version is available.

UPDATE  (2010-11-15) - the English translation Fundamental Amplifier Techniques with Electron Tubes is now available.



More 300B Triode Amplifiers


23 August 2010

ECC802S (12AU7 / ECC82) Tube SRPP Preamp


Our friend Bruce has shared another one of his vacuum tube projects with the DIY community.  His latest project is the ForeWatt Tube Preamplifier which is an ECC802S (12AU7 / ECC82) tube preamplifier.  The tube preamp uses a SRPP topology with ECC802S tube that can be substituted with 12AU7 and ECC82 tubes.  The gain of the preamp can be set 7 (~17dB) or 11 (~21 dB).  The lower gain setting is realized when the cathode bypass capacitor is omitted.  Naturally a switch can be used to change gain if desired.  Shown in the photo below is the Type I preamplifier build which uses a manual rotary switch for input selection and a manual Alps Blue Velvet potentiometer to attenuate the input signal.  The fabulous wooden enclosure was built by fellow hobbyist Jeff.

DIY ECC802S (12AU7 / ECC82) Vacuum Tube SRPP Preamplifier

The power supply is solid state and the DC is used to heat the tubes.  In the Type II version of the preamplifier shown in the photo below a remote control module is used for signal selection and signal attenuation.  With the remote control module the preamplifier can also be used as a passive (no gain) preamplifier.

DIY ECC802S (12AU7 / ECC82) Vacuum Tube SRPP Preamplifier

Bruce reports that with the ForeWatt preamplifier there is very clean with plenty of detail, a wide soundstage and that typical warm lush tube sound.  The measure performance of the preamp is very good.

For full details about the ForeWatt Preamp, see the DIY ECC802S (12AU7 / ECC82) Tube SRPP Preamplifier project page.

More Tube Preamplifier Projects:

13 July 2010

Design and Construction of Vacuum Tube Amplifiers


Design and Construction of Vacuum Tube Amplifiers

I frequently get questions about the design and building of vacuum tube (valve) audio equipment.  So I thought I would scribble down some of the tips and ideas that I have found useful.  This list is certainly not complete, nor a comprehensive guide.  There are numerous special circumstances that don’t fit the information.  I hope that it is of use to individuals that are either new to DIY valve audio or may help refresh others with things that they may have forgotten.
   

Initial Concerns

1.  First and most important, remember safety.  Nearly all vacuum tube amplifiers contain circuits with dangerous voltages.  If you don’t know what you are doing, don’t do it!  Mistakes can be fatal.

2.  Figure out what you are building and why.  What purpose will the equipment serve?  Will it be your main system, a secondary one, or just something for fun?

3.  Select your parts well.  If you use cheap parts, generally the end project will reflect that choice.  At the same time don’t waste money on parts that don’t matter.  Don’t get stuck on someone else’s choice.  Ask them why it is best.  If you are sufficiently knowledgeable, use parts you like.  Avoid getting trapped into thinking that tube equipment must be all tubes.  I greatly prefer high performance solid state rectifiers over tube ones of similar capacity.  I also use solid state constant current sources and regulators.  Use the type of component that best fits your needs and personal preferences. 

4.  Determine what tube types will do the job.  How much gain, power output, impedance, equalization?

5.  Is there already a design / circuit that does what you want that you can use?

6.  Can you get the parts needed?  Some parts are proprietary or discontinued and may be near impossible to get.

7.  Do not try to run components above their ratings.  Sooner or later they will probably fail.

8.  For power tubes, I recommend not exceeding 80% of the maximum dissipation.  This will also help extend the life of the tube.

9.  If a circuit requires matching of gain or output, it is better to include a way to do that.  In my experience “matched” tubes are not always equal.  Plus with aging they don’t generally stay matched forever.

10.  Select power transformers that can deliver at least 1.5 times the current you need.

11.  Consider heat buildup under the chassis.  A classic case often overlooked is that solid state rectifiers (diodes) have a voltage drop of 0.7 volts.  This times the current, for example 1 ampere will result in the generation of 0.7 watts of heat per rectifier.  A bridge then would generate 2.8 watts.  Heat is the enemy of things like capacitors. 

OK, let’s build it now ...

Design / Build Concerns

1.  Keep anything with AC voltages away from signal carrying parts or wires.  The further the better.  I like to keep a minimum distance of 2 inches.   Don’t get weird and go to huge extremes.

2.  Where power (DC or AC) conductors must cross signal wires or parts, do so at right angles with as much separation as is reasonable.

3.  Keep all wiring close to the chassis (particularly the corners) if the chassis is metal.

4.  Segregate power supply circuitry from signal circuitry.  Especially transformers.

5.  Put power transformers on the opposite side of a metal chassis as the active circuitry.

6.  Do not ground the inputs or outputs to the chassis.  This will nearly always will cause a ground loop.

7.  Use a “Star” or “Buss” grounding system.

8.  It is best to have a single connection between the power supply ground (B-) and the signal ground.

9.  If your electrical code permits (or insists) the metal chassis (if used) and all exposed metal parts should connect to the AC mains ground (not the neutral).

10.  Fuse the AC input.  It is a good idea to fuse the B+ inside the project as well.

11.  If your electrical code permits, connect the signal, and power supply grounds to the chassis at a single point through a  X2 type capacitor and resistor.  This is a great help in keeping noise low.  Do not use a standard capacitor.  Typical values are 0.1 uF to 0.22uF at 250 volts AC for the X2 rated capacitor.  The resistor is usually between 100 and 150 ohms and is a half watt to one watt preferably a flameproof version. 

12.  Keep capacitors, particularly signal carrying ones close to the chassis if it is metal.  Keep them away from filter capacitors and transformers.

13.  Keep component leads as short as possible.

14.  I like to use a consistent wiring color code for tube audio circuits, especially in prototypes.  It makes it a lot easier to troubleshoot when something doesn’t work like expected.  Be consistent in the color codes as it will pay off if you do several projects. 


Additional Considerations

1.  Take your time in the design and layout planning phase.  A poor design or poor layout will seriously degrade the end device.   I spend more time in design and layout than in building by a factor of 10 or more.

2.  Take your time in building the project.  Poor construction technique has ruined lots of projects.

3.  I like to use DC on tube heaters.  The less AC running around in a chassis the better (quieter).  If you must use AC on the heaters, be sure to tightly twist the wires together.  Use bypass capacitors (often called a snubber) on the heaters.  I usually put one on each tube right at the socket.

4.  I like to use a IEC AC receptacle.  The types I prefer to use have EMI/RFI line filters and sometimes the fuse all in one neat package.

5.  Include a power indicator light.  LEDs are great for this.  Since tube equipment takes some time to warm up and even then it is not always obvious it is turned on an indicator is quite handy.

6.  Build the project with the thought in mind that you may want to modify or service it later.  Test points are handy to verification proper operation.

7.  Check the wiring carefully when you are finished the building process.

8.  I like to use a ground fault protected outlet (GFCI) when first powering up a new project.  Getting zapped by your project is no fun.

9.  Check all voltages when you are convinced the project is functioning.

10.  If all is not working properly, seek help.  Both individuals and DIY audio discussion forums are quite valuable in the resolution of problems.

11. Relax and enjoy with satisfaction the project you built yourself.

Good Listening
Bruce Heran



Related Articles:

Tube Amplifier Wiring Color Code

Tube Amplifier Wiring Color Code

The question of a wiring color code for vacuum tube circuitry is one we get quite often.  As far as we know, there is standard color code for this.  Below is the color code that Bruce Heran uses for his valve audio projects.  These color codes can be used in conjunction with Bruce's tips on the Design and Construction of Vacuum Tube Amplifiers.


Tube Amplifier Wiring Color Code

Black or black with stripe = AC mains input
Green on the AC mains is chassis ground (if your electric code permits)
Red is high voltage DC, usually the  B+
Red/Orange = intermediate B+
Bright orange = positive side of heaters if DC operated
Bright green = negative side of heaters if DC operated
Pale green = heaters if AC operated
Blue = signal level / inputs (where not shielded)
White = negative feed back
Brown = cathodes
Purple = control signals

The typical wiring found on a lot of power and audio output transformers.  Not all transformer makers use these color codes, but it is good guidance if you have no clue about the transformer.

Power Transformers

Black and Black with stripe = AC mains
Red = high voltage secondaries
Red with black stripe or solid black (coming out of the same hole in the transformer) = high voltage center tap
Brown = usually standard values of heater voltage 6, 12
Brown/with stripe = standard values with center tap
Green = also used for standard heaters
Green with strip = also used for standard heaters
Blue = non-standard heater value (like 8 or 10 etc)
Blue with stripe = center tap
If there is a second heater it is often yellow and yellow
If there is a third heater or a bias winding it is often orange and orange


Audio Output Transformers

Red = B+ input
Blue = plate number 1
Blue/White = screen number one if a U/L transformer
Brown = plate number 2
Brown/White = screen number 2
White = speaker ground
Orange = 4 ohms
Yellow = 8 ohms
Green = 16 ohms

Good listening
Bruce

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29 June 2010

Tung-Sol KT120 Tubes - SE Impressions

Up to a few weeks ago I didn't even know the KT120 tube existed.  Thanks to Bruce, of Oddwatt Audio fame, I not only heard of the tube but now am using them in my simple two stage single-ended (SE), ultra-linear (UL) tube power amp.  The tube is the new Tung-Sol KT120

A very simple amp
The amp started life with a 6N1P driver tube and a KT88 in each channel. Not just any KT88 but in my case a JJ KT88 Blue Glass matched pair. This all exists on a bread board layout and I label the amp “Be Bamp”. The 6N1P driver tubes remains but the KT88 has given up its ceramic socket to a goliath of a power pentode.

The amplifier is based on Mikael Abdellah's single-ended KT88 tube amplifier circuit.  I have built a few of these amps and find them an excellent and inexpensive amp.


Simple Improvements
With some assistance of Bruce I increased the current flow through the KT88 from 63mA to 93mA. This allowed the KT88s to really deliver and lifted the amp from good to excellent. This modification does restrict tube rolling with the cathode current now being high and HT+ at 400V.  But nothing had prepared me for what was going to happen to the over-all sound and power delivery of this amp just by plugging in a couple of inexpensive (if not over-sized) tubes. How easy is it to remove two tubes and replace them with others and make no other changes? Can it be that easy? Yes it can because I did it.

The higher current through the KT88s had lifted the bass substantially. Not deeper just a delivery with greater weight. The power of the amp did not increase and remained at 7.5W RMS. What would the KT120s do to bass and would the power remain the same?

Under test with KT120s in place
My speakers are 6ohms impedance so a 6.8ohm resistor was used to load the amp for all the tests.  With Edcor XSE15-8-5k the -3dB points at 1W are 26Hz and 36kHz. The power increased to 9.7W RMS.  The amp had a reasonable power lift by replacing the power tubes. The cathode resistor is 300ohms and cathode current increased to 112mA. This occurred due to the tubes characteristics. 

I had listened to the amp for some time before measuring max power. I had felt the power had increased based on how the amp sounded.  Bass changed too. It sounded far more controlled. Mid range sounded clearer, crisper more depth. Treble about on par with KT88s in place. 

A few side effects of greater current drain are now the power tranni gets very hot. After hours of play you can only put your hand on it for a short time. With increased heat, listening pleasure has increased. I have now spent many hours listening to a variety of music both vinyl and CD through this amp. I can say with authority the amp is a much improved animal with the benefit of the KT120s driving the speakers.

Authority and passion
I'm a firm believe that the measure any system is its ability to move you musically.  Not by producing hundreds of watts and physically shaking you but by moving you emotionally.  If a system can convey the passion of the music I think it is bringing the music or performance to you.  To do this the main components, which make a system, all have to work in a synergy which "touches" you.

The power amp has a main role to play in that synergy. On a number of occasions now this map has played its part in bring powerful emotion to the music. It has powered my speakers with ease and authority and even at good volume shows no sign of clipping, strain or harshness. Music just flows from it and engulfs you.

Support equipment
Listed below is my equipment of the main listening area of my home and which the KT120 Be Bamp has been a part of for the last few weeks.

Analogue: Rega Planar 3 with RB300 arm and Grado wood body Reference Sonata cartridge
Phono Preamp: opamp based two stage battery powered
CDP: Oppo 980H upgraded by Vacuum Sate – Terra Firma clock
Preamp: Two stage Golden Dragon 12AX7s, Jensen copper, paper and oil caps with tube rectification
Power Amp: Be Bamp with KT120s
Interconnects: Pure silver and Transparent 200s
Speakers: Osborn Eclipse, three way large floor standing, 91dB sensitivity

Most of the gear is home made or modified commercial.

Listening notes
I audition the amp to a fellow DIYer who has both SS and tube amps. The night was based on a variety of pop, classical, opera and jazz vinyl. I will base my listening notes on that night but re-listen to each track for a refresher.

Clannad – Macalla [RCA/Victor LP]. On track one, "Caislean Oir", chorused voice present in an eerie manner with Maire taking some solo parts. Voices massed, appear natural, reverb was heavy but faded quickly. Individual voices could be heard in the mix with ease. The next two tracks sounded balanced with good bass but not dominating. Pace of the three tacks is easy going and sounded about right. Drums sound clean and snare naturally defined. On track three the bass drum had drive and bite and appeared forward.

Scheherazade - Rimsky Korsakov - The Chicago Symphony Orchestra [RCA/Victor LP].  This LP would have to be one of the best system test classical or demonstration LPs available. From the very first track which opens with a big brass "blast" to a solo violin then onto massed strings and builds then drops to flute and violin. The Be Bamp presented this whole LP with all the power passion imbedded in its tracks. You never felt you were missing anything. Big, bold, loud and delicate and sweet where it had to be.  Huge sound stage with good depth with the double basses throwing weight into the whole performance. Unforgettable! Articulate and defining.

Kate Bush - Aerial [EMI -180gm double LP]. Sea of Honey side B: "How to be Invisible". Driving bass and bass drum with clear electric guitar forward  of other instruments. Kate's voice, now mellower than her earlier days, sounded clean with all the intonations clear and discernable. She was really in charge on this track over quite a heavy back ground of a few instruments.  In "Joanni"  Kate's voice is back further in the mix with synths and heavy bass tracks. But once more you had no trouble discerning every word. The KT120s have a clean, crisp mid-range. To me this bought Kate her own space in a very complex and heavy, dark tones.

Donizetti - L'elisir d'amore / Sutherland · Pavarotti [DECCA LP].  This Opera opens with the prelude and introductory chorus and then Mr. Pavarotti takes over. From Pavarotti's very first phrases you are totally hooked. The clear and detailed presentation of the KT120s is very evident.  Pavarotti's voice floats into the room and engulfs you. You can "feel" where Pavarotti is standing on stage (left of stage) and you sense the size of the theatre this Opera is being performed in. Sutherland follows Pavarotti and sounds on pitch and well placed against stage and orchestra. This amp would be wasted if it never saw classical and particularly Opera.

Diana Krall – When I look into your eyes [Universal Music 180gm double LP].  The first side of this LP has excessive reverb. It sounds like false digital reverb which never sounds right. With a result sibilance is distracting. Dianna's voice is detailed and forward. The backing band sound excellent. Dianna's piano sounds a little bloomy and not quite natural.  Highs are crisp and airy which is what I come to expect from the KT120s. Rhythm and pace for the whole double LP set sounds right, even "jump'n".  On the second track, first side, the double bass is exquisitely articulate. You can follow every note and only the lower register gets a little boomy. Very enjoyable.

The downside and the upside
If you are a heavy rock, pop or R&B enthusiast stay with the KT88s in the same amp. The bass from the 88s is bloomier, a little more bloated and heavier sounding. This may appeal to some. With the KT88s in place sibilance is more controlled. The KT120s really open up the mids but with that comes accentuation of sibilance where it is badly recorded. The 88s control sibilance well, not masking it but not let it dominate.

Both tubes have excellent high frequency extension. So nothing to note at the top end. Except there maybe just a hint more air from the KT120s. But mid-range:  voice, acoustic guitar, strings, brass  and piano is where the KT120s really shine. Not only defining those sounds in the total mix but giving them weight, space and clarity. And with that comes pace and rhythm. Not that I ever felt the KT88s could not swing with the best.

Rap-up!
If you enjoy a wide variety of music and want a little extra power from your SE UL or triode amp then purchase some KT120s. Drop them in place of your current tubes (assuming over all compatibility) and get use to better vocals, a tighter bass and airy highs. Who could ask for more?
Mark Houston – retro-thermionic.
To email Mark, type out the email address.


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